*Original Post: Wednesday July 22, 2015
Hello everyone. I hope you all are healthy and feeling fit. It was a productive late winter/early spring season for first ascents on the Tahoe Stone as new boulders are still constantly being discovered.
It has been fun lately running around to old zones repeating the classics. We have been finding undone problems to add to the circuits on old blocks and entirely new boulders to clean up as well. Sometimes we find substantial sit starts to add to problems or link ups of a couple existing lines but some of the new additions were striking undone problems sitting just next to the old ones.
My buddy Roman Yalowitz has been a strong force in this first ascent game since moving to Tahoe, and it has been great training for me to try and keep up with him.
Roman is motivated to sniff out the granite, has a great eye for seeing the lines and is also quite good at getting on top of the blocks. This blog will take you through our recent escapades on the Tahoe Stone as of late.
Let us rewind back to February, South Lake Tahoe, Echo Summit, at the Lake Audrain Boulders. We had gone out that day wanting to repeat some classics of the area and get a better feel for what was there. We started out warming up on a new boulder Clay Josephy had cleaned up right before we arrived. There were a couple warm up problems on the block perfect for starting the day. Right around the corner Roman found another block to clean up. It was the perfect problem for the next level warm up and he named it "The Arborist" v4 due to the branches he moved out of the way topping out. I enjoyed a repeat of the line and we headed over to the existing main circuit. We ran around and did some of the super fun classics real fast. Lake Audrain has a nice circuit with a lot of premium rock quality and great movement. The approach is a mere five to ten minutes and the venue is beautiful. We started seeing some undone sit starts, link ups and new lines in between the old ones. My favorites were the sit starts we added to "Big Sloper" v6, "Flake Audrain" v7, "Log Jam" v6 and the link up "Baby Bunyan" v5. It was super fun opening up these new additions that day, I hope folks will go repeat these gems and enjoy. All beta will be in the second edition of the guide.
Some weather rolled in for a few days and we went down to map an area for the "Outlying Guide" in the Carson Valley called the Tombstones. It was rad to be able to climb on dry rock when Tahoe was completely shut down by snow. The Tombstones have some cool problems and we all had a good time down there. We repeated some real nice highballs and added a few lines of our own. This spot will be in the second edition of the Outlying Guide and is a nice complement to the Basin. The most memorable line to me was "Eternal Glory" v5 which is situated in a corridor and has a bit of spice at the finish. Real nice line.
As the snow started to melt, we looked for dry rocks and found them up above Incline Village at "Cloud Nine". What a venue this place is. After trolling around hitting some classics, Roman had spotted a dirty little baby boulder with a problem on it. We cleaned the rig and started attempting it. Roman pulled the first ascent off and "Scrapple the Apple" v6 was born. After the new problem was established we headed over to a project in the guide up the hill a bit. It was unique having a huge capstone that created a mini roof at the top of the boulder. Roman made short work of the thing and named it "No Exit" v7. Looked thrilling at the finish with nothing but miserable smears for feet underclinging the mini roof while shuffling out right to the summit. Nice additions to the area from Roman that day.
Next outing we headed over to Lost In Space for some high quality stone in an amazing place. The river block had just been opened up and we wanted to check it out. An amazingly rad squeeze line had been added to the boulder by Thee Jesse Bonin called "Wide Angle Friends" v9. We started on the shaded side and scrubbed up a line to try. We both did the stand at about v5 and started attempting the low. The low starts matched on a crimp rail with your left heel on it as well. Of course Roman sent the line after a bit of effort and dubbed the full line "La Baroude" v8. Next he jumped on another line just to the right as it was getting dark and I was packing up. "Pecan Pie" v5 was born as he topped out the rad looking problem just before dark. He later went back and added a sit start to this one at about v9. The block turned out to have several nice lines on it and will all be in the second edition of the guide.
A couple weeks later we returned and went to the main circuit. We started trying a line we had all looked at when Lost in Space was new but never gave it any effort. We set to cleaning, figuring out what slopers felt the best, what micro features under the roof we could oppose the lip with, how to top out and find the feet for the most enjoyable dyno. Little by little it all came together and we opened up "Bulldozer" v7. It was so much fun figuring out the movement of this line, which grips to use and linking for the send with a friend. Again, all the beta for this new line will be in the second edition of the guide.
Tahoe Bouldering, it's not just us, it's what YOU want! Cheers folks!